Spain Producer Visit October 2024

SPAIN PRODUCER VISIT

OCTOBER 2024

During the third week of October, our Chef Director, Leigh Myers, and Sustainability Co-ordinator, Nieves Lovatt, were joined by Wellocks customers Luke French, Chef & Co-owner of Restaurant Jöro, and Galton Blackiston, Chef Patron of 1 Michelin Star Morston Hall, to visit two of our Spanish producers. On the search for the finest ingredients, Nieves has shared an insight into their time on Spanish soil. 

 

Initially, I went on this trip with a focus to learn more about our sustainable producers, however, I returned from the trip with so much than that. 

 

It was fantastic to spend time with both Luke French and Galton Blackiston, sharing with me their own perspectives; their culinary oversight provided me with a whole newfound respect for the ingredients we were fortunate enough to visit. During the trip, we visited two of our exclusive producers- Eduardo, with his ethical Foie Gras, and Beher, with their Iberian Ham.

 

EDUARDO SOUSA

Visiting Eduardo Sousa's farm provided an unparalleled insight into the centuries-old tradition of producing ethical foie gras.

 

Our evening began in a rustic room resembling a traditional hunting lodge, with a large fire crackling in the hearth and a long wooden table at its center. It was here that Eduardo shared his deep passion for his craft, a practice passed down through five generations of the Sousa family. Tasting the exceptional foie gras, produced in such an authentic setting, set the tone for the entire experience.

 

The following morning, we ventured to the farm at sunrise, continuing our immersion in the natural process behind Eduardo's product. Located near the Doñana National Park, the farm radiated a sense of timelessness, with subtle reminders of the ancient tradition of producing foie gras. Originating in Jewish Egypt, this art form has been perfected by few, and Eduardo stands as one of its last true practitioners. While many have attempted to replicate the method, Eduardo's process is rooted not just in generational knowledge but also in the unique harmony between his production and the surrounding natural environment.

 

One of the most memorable moments came while walking through the groves, listening to Eduardo’s distinct call that summoned the geese to him. As he called, the geese came—drawn by a few kernels of maize. It was a poignant reminder of the deep connection between Eduardo and his geese, as well as the profound respect for nature that defines his approach.

 

His keen eye could distinguish which geese might be ready for harvest and which should be left to continue their natural journey. The farm supports the geese through every stage of their life cycle, from hatching to fledging. Many of the geese return year after year, drawn to the fertile environment Eduardo has carefully nurtured. Some even remain on the farm year-round, helping to attract migrating flocks. These are the geese that provide the natural foie gras that has made Eduardo's farm world-renowned.

The thermal corridor that runs above the farm plays a crucial role in this unique process. During migration, the geese stop at the farm to naturally gorge themselves before continuing their journey to Africa. This is when they take full advantage of the farm's diverse offerings—the acorns that fall as they ripen, the olives, lupins, and the wide array of natural vegetation—all of which contribute to the eclectic diet that flavors their livers.

Before the geese are ready to take flight, Eduardo carefully selects the birds destined for the final product. He knows instinctively which birds are ready, able to pick them out at a glance. However, Eduardo will only ever take a full gaggle of geese, never just one or two. To take fewer would disrupt the family structure, causing unnecessary distress to the flock.

Eduardo’s top priority is to preserve the integrity of this small-scale, authentic production, fostering the exclusive relationship between farm, animal, and nature. His respect for the birds, the environment, and tradition is evident in everything he does. The Sousa family’s warm hospitality and genuine passion for producing ethical foie gras within such a stunning landscape make Eduardo, in my view, the crème de la crème of producers. His unwavering commitment to honoring an age-old tradition while respecting the environment results in a product that is as delicious as it is ethically sound. The values that have sustained this practice for generations are deeply embedded in the family, and it’s clear that the farm, with its rich traditions, will continue to thrive for years to come.

 

 

BEHER

 

The second producer we had the privilege of learning about was Beher, a family-owned business that has been producing exceptional 100% Iberian Jamón since 1930. Their mission is clear: to maintain their legacy as the producer of the finest Iberian ham in the world.

From the very beginning of the process, Beher's attention to detail is unmistakable. Our journey started with a visit to their Iberian pigs, which spend their final three months fattening in the acorn orchards. However, much to our surprise, the pigs were nowhere to be found! While the absence of farm animals might usually be cause for concern, this time it felt refreshing. It was evident that the pigs truly enjoyed the freedom to roam across the expansive, diverse grasslands of the acorn orchards.

 

What sets Beher apart is that they own all of their farms, giving them complete control over every aspect of production. From selecting the right sow to pairing her with the perfect boar, this level of precision ensures the production of their renowned, high-quality ham. The most critical factor from the very start is preserving the 100% Iberian lineage. The company is deeply committed to protecting the genetics and integrity of the breed.

 

While pig production is often a subject of debate, it's clear that Beher is dedicated to raising the bar for Spanish pig farming standards. They collaborate with several universities, including the University of Madrid’s veterinary faculty, to continuously improve their practices. 

 

Once the pigs are old enough to be moved outside, they move to the transition pens, where they get a flavor for what is to come whilst still being supported by a cereal diet. After one month in the transition pen the gates are opened to the vast foraging areas. Here is where the magic truly begins and luckily on day two, we were able to witness it, once the pigs had been located.  


Biodiversity is not something which is usually thought of when looking at pig production. However, as soon as you stand amongst the trees it is clear to see that these are species rich areas which serve more than just the Iberian pigs. Whilst the tree line was briming with acorn trees and alike the undergrowth was spectacular. 

Where acorns have previously fallen, there were signs of new offshoot growths. The grassland was booming with species mixes, the dung beetles taking the nutrients the pigs leave behind and returning it back to the soil. Each year the farm will select one area to re-seed or to leave as fallow to encourage this growth, during the tour it became clear that these species rich grassland were just as important to the production of the flavourful end product as the acorns which are the main source of nutrients.

 

Upon entering the factory facility, the most surprising thing was the amount of people. Following the carcass into the factory, there is a hands-on requirement at each station. As the carcass is broken down, the legs and shoulders are weighed and selected for class.  They are then trimmed and prepared for the salting process. The legs are laid within the salting chamber in correlation with their weight – 12kg – 12 days and are turned halfway through this process. 

 

 

 

As we moved through the factory, we followed the legs of Jamón as they were painted with a solution of burnt fat, a critical step in developing the signature color of Pata Negra. Only after this process do the legs make their way to the curing room. If I could dedicate an entire blog just to the curing room, I absolutely would. At the top of the expansive space, stunning stained-glass windows depicted Iberian pigs grazing in acorn orchards, adding a beautiful, symbolic touch to the room. Beside them, a large fan circulated the natural air, which plays a vital role in developing the rich flavor during the maturing process.  Whilst in the room we were told, “The air from the mountains cures our product,” a testament to the age-old tradition that has been passed down through generations.

 

The legs hung from continuous frames, each one tagged for traceability, ensuring precision at every stage. The legs are cured for three years, during which it receives numerous coatings of burnt fat, with each leg checked over time to ensure the curing process is developing flavour as it should. Once the three years have passed, the legs are carefully trimmed, packed, and prepared for distribution. No detail is overlooked.

 

What stood out most about Beher was the human element at every stage of the process. It was clear that without the personal touch at each small, seemingly minor step, the final product simply wouldn’t have the same impact on the consumer. From the farming to processing, curing, prepping, and packing, each stage is handled with care, deep knowledge, and a respect for tradition.

 

Our short trip to Spain allowed us to witness the creation of some truly exceptional ingredients. The more we can connect people—and chefs—to the origins of these products, the better we can protect our food systems, historical practices and shape a future that is more conscious of the environment and the way we produce our food.